i have a 2000 honda civic si ( had it about 4years, still drives like new), anyways, i just test drove a 2001 integra type-r about a week ago, and i have to say it was better than sex. I know the redline says 8400 rpm, but that car goes all the way to 8900rpm, as compared to mine that probably stops at 8200rpm. Unlike my Si, which screams vtech but doesnt move (torqueless), the type r carries the driver all the way past the redline, it is like there is torque at every rpm. All these time, i thought my car was quick. What makes this type-r faster than my car apart from handling. My Si is all stock except for the tein complete suspension which makes my si handle better than the type-r. Do i have to buy a whole new engine for the car, bcos i do not have 4000 dollars to spend on another engine, when the one i have can very well go another 100,000 miles or more. Can i get some advice.
NOTE: i dont like turbos.
OK, guy who posted above me is an idiot.
CR-VTEC engines are garbage and doing an H23 block with a H22 head is going to result in too much work/problems.
Here is the real deal. I am also an owner of a 2000 Civic Si Coupe and I have also had my car for about 4 years too. Mine is not so stock though. I have modified it quite extensively to be an excellent street car. We also have something else in common…a dislike for turbo kits. That is exactly why I invested in a ProCharger intercooled/supercharger kit for my 00 Civic Si.
On top of all the bolt-on mods and the cams in my B16, the ProCharger kit is absolutely phenomenal. Plus, it isn’t going to kill your engine and you will retain its daily driver-ness. If your looking to keep your Civic Si, which I think you should, but you want more get-up…start looking around at supercharger kits. Superchargers are the king of drive-ability and offer superior low-end power.
(By the way the 00 Civic Si redline is 7900rpm, just for future reference)
The type Ris faster because it has a 1.8LITER engine versus your 1.6.It may not sound like much but it makes a lot of difference.They have 200hp,you only have maybe 160 wheel hp.You have the B16A2 engine while the integra type R has the B18C5. B is the engine series,very popular among swaps.18 is the displacement 1.8 C is the version,there was a B18A and B18B but those didnt have VTEC. 5 is simply the variant.The integra GSR has the B18C1 and the LS/GS integras had the B18A and B18B.The B20s have great torque its a 2.0 but if it is no built right it can blow up.For a person who is asking this question than a b20 is out of the question since if ure asking the question then you kno little about hondas.Get that B18C5 implant,since you love it so much.Id sell the Si and get a type R but if you really like the Si keep it,sell the B16A2 for 1,500 around and get a JDM B18C or a B18C5.The B18C is japanese and has no variant number.They are slighty better than our B18C5 but very alike.
Go past redline and you’ll end up with pistons in your lap. Leave it alone and enjoy the ride.
Put a GS-R block in there with your Si head, and you will prob be quicker than the Type-R, it’ll basically be the same motor as the Type-R
The Integra Type R is rare and the reason it’s faster is 1- bigger engine 1979cc yours 1595cc 2- Different intake manifold design short runner 3- Header 4-1 and larger diameter Exhaust system 4- Cams and pistons 10.8:1 vs. 10.2:1 compression. With the Integra they strengthened the chassis (with extra spot welds), minimized the weight (no sound insulation, thinner windscreen, lighter wheels & exhaust), extracting more power (intake and exhaust ports were hand polished!) upgraded the brakes and of course upgraded the suspension.
You can get the engine from the Integra Type R B18C5 or just B18C-R in Japan equipped with a close ratio 5 speed manual transmission with LSD but is going to cost you 4600.00 give or take.
So either buy the Type-R and sell your car or upgrade your Civic you still have a lot of things you can do that will get you more power then the Type R for 4600.00. you have exhaust, pistons, cams, intake manifold, headers, intake, high flow cat, supercharger which will give you the torque your missing but can be expensive and with the pulley that comes with the kit usually only gives you a 50 to 75 horse power more but you can usually get other pulleys that will give you more power. With bolt on parts alone you can make just about the same power add in some more major parts cams and so on and your talking over 200 hp.
It comes down to do you want a car the every one see’s makes them want because the hype or do you want a car that makes more power out handles and when you blow by the ITR makes the him want your Civic.
I’m going to use almost the same answer as a question I answered yesterday !
Just throw a frankienstein engine AKA CRVTEC !
1996-2000 Civic V-tec engine head on a 1996-1998 (usually a B16 head) B20 CRV engine , I heard of people doing this and it’s a very powerfull engine and its front wheel drive and would require little modification to get in !
The B20 engine is the newcomer in the game and is highly acclaimed by its supporters. It has several key characteristics that give this engine real potential no matter what route you decide to persue. The B20B came on the 1996-1998 CRV and the B20Z came on 1999-2000 CRV. The B20B made 126 hp but the real jewel was the 133lbs of torque that was easily achieved almost anywhere in the RPM band. It is a small displacement engine that has flat torque line!!! Additionally it was a comparatively low compression engine which means that turbocharging to decent levels is possible without the need to spend hundreds on rods or pistons. The B20Z was more or less the same as the B20B but they changed several head characteristics and the compression was bumped up to increase the horsepower to 146.
There are really two choices for dealing the B20 as far as power goes. You could leave it as is and simply swap the head for B16 model. The cylinder head on the B20B model (particularly the tall intake manifold) doesn’t clear the hoodline of the civic, which is ok since the B16 head swap will add Vtec abilities and increased power. OR you could go about what is called a CR-VTEC conversion. This is what I consider to be the ultimate engine build-up for civics’. You can check out http://www.crvtec.com for details. The first thing you need to know about B-series engine (B18, B16, B20) is that they all have, for the most part, interchangeable engine parts. So the CRVTEC buildup basically consists of taking the best parts of all the engines and making an unprecedented Frankenstein of motor that has a perfect Rod to Stroke ratio of near 1.75 which allows for great naturally aspirated performance (A HUGE redline) or the ability to turbocharge the engine to very large proportions without worrying about engine stability. It is unfortunately rather expensive but this setup will take you anywhere you want to go. The simple B20/B16 swap costs as follows: $1000-$1500 for the B20 short block, +/- $600 for the B16 head, +/- $300 for the B16 ECU + tranny and other small parts.
Unless you’re simply happy with the stock B20 swap, the only reasons it should be considered are CRVTEC conversions or Forced Induction. The aftermarket support isn’t as plentiful for the B20 as it is for the other engine mentioned so any engine upgrades usually come from other B series or upgraded aftermarket parts for other B series. Which is more less slowly building a CRVTEC engine. But I still highly recommend this engine for the best bang for the buck power adder.
Now HERE’S where the real deal is. Since the giraffe intake on the B20B doesn’t clear the hood, the head has to be swapped anyways, so you could use any of the choices above as well for the B20Z. My personal favorite, you swap in a B20 with lots of usable torque, then you swap in a modded B16 head and make a few ECU changes, like rev limiter and now you have lots of torque with Vtec high end and an 8000 redline. Or the low compression rate allows for decent turbocharging and you can achieve great heights with the B16 head flow
OR you could go with one im not to familiar with but is supossed to have even more power?
A H23 block with an H22 head swap. It makes for great Vtec high end and the larger displacement block makes for the biggest torque .
From talks with several veteran H22 swappers I can give you the overall driving opinion. To make the swap work, first off the springs and shocks in the front need to be stiffened to appropriately handle the extra weight. The overall suspension tuning should concentrate on trying to create heavy oversteer to offset the natural understeer problem the extra weight will create. There is another way to offset the understeer problem but most ppl don’t want to go through with it. It involves placing a few hundred pounds of weight in the trunk to even out the weight distribution. But most ppl want to go the other way by stripping everything out of the interior, effectively making it worse. The cooling system will amazingly enough be fine for about 75% of the time. However, on hot days or with spirited driving, the engine can start to overheat itself. An extra wide Integra radiator can be swapped in for about $100 that will provide all the extra cooling you need. You can learn about it here: http://www.hybrid.honda-perf.org/tech/js… If you have the extra money, you could swap in an all aluminum thick *** racing radiator with a smaller and more efficient fan and for extra insurance, a low temperature thermostat (160 degree rather than 180) could be replaced. Considering you no longer have air-conditioning the extra space that was once used by the AC condenser could be put to good use and it could be used for an external oil cooler. With this setup you could go uphill mountain racing without fear overheating. The braking system for the most part could work but if you really want to trust your life to stock system, be my guest. If you’d like to upgrade it, the cheap way is to replace the rotors for better heat dissipation (You could either get stock sized cross-drilled or slotted rotors, or you could opt for a bigger rotor kit that uses a relocated bracket so you can use the stock calipers) better brake pads and rear brake disk swap if not already equipped .If you have some money, you could get a 4-piston caliper upgrade with extra large rotors with great pads. Just the thing to stop you at 150 mph. If you do opt for the bigger rotor upgrade, remember that the stock wheels will no longer fit over the larger brakes. Some systems suggest 16” or larger.