I’ve had some questions about how the vitaras are getting people into the 400 hp range. I hoping to learn a bit here. Is the reason because of the pistons hold up to heat/abuse better or is it the fact that they lower compression so GD low? And if it is because of the low compression then will the new “custom length” rods be defeating the purpose of the vitaras. Or is it just as likely to get the same numbers wth TT rods and JE, Weisco, SRP or whoever pistons and everybody just uses the vitaras because of the price?

1. Well the JE/Weisco/SRP are forged aluminum where as the vitara’s are cast aluminum, forged is much stronger. We use vitara’s bacause
   • yes it lowers C/R to a much more boost friendly level, although 9:1 will be the lowest I go from now on.
   • the ringlands are (supposedly) thicker than the factory honda pistons, ringlands are usually the first thing on the pistons to break with the stockers.
   • they’re cheap and they fit.

ok, so this is basically common sense but here is a how to on what i did.

things that you need:
- stripped block of your choice
- epsom salt
- devcon liquid aluminum www.grainger.com ($45)

step 1: make sure block is level (use a level on the deck)
step 2: look to see that H2O drain plug is still in block, but loose
step 3: w/ h20 pump removed, duct-tape up where the H2O pump was
step 4: pour salt evenly into the H20 jacket
step 5: take a screwdriver and find height just abovethe H2O pump hole and mark it on the screwdriver
step 6: take screwdriver around jacket at predetermaned height to make the salt even
step 7: mix proper ammount of devcon liquid aluminum about 3/4lb
step 8: pour slowly (leaving approx 3/16″ from deck) **take finger and run around jacket removing excess… works well
step 9: let cure at room temp for 2 hours and the at 200* for 4 hours. what i did was put the block over a heat vent and shut the rest in the house. so it was basically F.I. even before it was in the car  then after 4 hrs w/ heat, let stand @ room temp for 18 hrs
step 10: pull drain plug after 24 hours (full cure time) and run water thru it to remove salt (at least 5 minutes) remember to spray WD40 in bores after H20
step 11:put “new” gasket on top of block and mark it w/ a sharpie where the coolant holes go
step 12: use a undersized drill (1/8″) to make a “pilot hole” and on the slots, drill 2 holes for the outside radai of each slot
step 13: goto larger sized drill and open up the holes, and slots
step 14: blow out block after drilling then rinse w/ H20, respray WD40 in bores
step 15: macine work, have it honed or bored or whatever
step 16:  rebuild

Using LS Rods in a D series:

The crank ends of the LS rods and D series are same size around at 1.890″ (48mm). The crank end bore width needs to be milled to match the D16 crank rod journals. Shave .022″ off each side of the crank end of the rod.
The piston end bore needs to be bushed to match the D16 piston’s smaller pin size. The pin on the LS pistons is 0.826″ (21mm), the pin on the D16 pistons is 0.748″ (19mm). You need the custom made aluminum-bronze bushing with a width of 0.786, ID. 0.748, OD. 0.827 +(over) three thousands due to the bushing will be pressed in the small-end of the LS rods, so the bushing won’t come out of the hole. Crower sells these for around $40 a set.