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Honda Engines Turbo!? What Will Give Me The Biggest Bang For My Buck?

4 Comments 17 September 2009

i wanna drop about $7500 on a 93 civic 2 door. interior will be completely lightweight fiberglass. exterior bodykitted and painted…this will eventually be a race/showcar…showcar side is already taken car of. my main question is which engine setup would be better the gsr b18 or the si-r b16 either engine will be turboed possibly nos and hope to atleast run 10’s on the quarter after all is said and done. i found a gsr for 3450 with everything tranny shift links drive shafts ecu the works also found si-r for 2700 everything included. which is the better option overall?! i need to buy one of these asap thanks

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4 Comments so far

  1. Felliph3 says:

    That GSR swap looks expensive. The GSR engine will be better bc of the added torque and it is easier to make power with even though its not too different from the B16. The B16 makes little power down low. Turbo GSR is really fast. Drop on a homemade turbo kit for 1,500 tuned+GSR for 3,200 =4,700-5000. Do a full rebuild with the rest and change the rods and pistons and get titanium valve springs,polished+ported head+ badass adjustible cams+LSD for the tranny+slicks. Youll be really fast with that.. Good luck.

  2. Ben Linus says:

    To answer your question, the B18 will probably give you the most bang for your buck, but either engine swap will make a huge difference over the standard 4cyl in your Civic.
    Now for the bad news: chances are you won’t be able to make a Honda Civic run anywhere close to 10’s. Even if you could, you’re going to have to spend A LOT more money than you think to build a car to go that fast and it’s not as easy as just strapping on a big turbo or piping up a big bottle of nitrous either.
    As a point of reference: a mid engine, rear drive Ferrari Enzo with 650hp and a specialized launch control system programmed by Ferrari’s own race engineers can’t run a quarter mile in the 10’s.
    I’d aim for something far more realistic (high 13’s maybe?) and modify the interior and exterior to suit your taste. You could still make a really nice, quick show car/street car out of it, just keep your expectations realistic on how fast it will be and you won’t be disappointed.

  3. victor s says:

    You’re asking a lot for a stock bottom end to handle or the block itself. B18 will get you into the mid 12ish maybe a high 11. On race fuel and no NO2. And the block and internals couldn’t handle NO2 anyway.
    The B18 out of the Integra GSR is the best factory Honda motor to boost because it only has a 9.1:1 compression ratio which is low for a Honda.

  4. hondab16 says:

    If you want to run 10’s then you are NOT going to have it a showcar. Also for $7,500 thats not going to get it done either. You are going to have to COMPLETLY gut your car, the only thing you are going to have in there is a roll cage and drivers seat. A good goal for a full interior street car is mid 12’s. But the other part of your question the engines you are looking at are WAY TOO EXPENSIVE. You can get a B16 swap for your car for $1,300, a B18C for $1,700. And thats with the axles and ECU. Now for the engine, wanting even 12’s you are going to have to COMPLETLY build the engine from the crank up, i mean EVERY MOVING PART will need to be changed. A good turbo kit from either Greddy, or Turbonetics will set you back $3,500. Now since I ‘m almost positive you don’t have a machine shop in your back yard, or the knowledge to correctly build the engine, you need to factor in about $2,000 for labor to compensate for the engine rebuild. You are already up to your $7,500 budget and have not gotten any parts yet. So you figure, rotating assembly which includes you low compression pistons, rods, and crank, along with the piston rings, rod, and main bearings, $1,500, you will have to sleeve the block $1,500 for the sleeves and machine work, upgraded clutch and flywheel $600, stage 4 axles $400, engine management system $1,000, fuel injectors $350, fuel rail $130, fuel pressure regulator $175, cams $650, cam gears $220, valves $130, valve springs $200, retainers $250, valve guides $75, ARP head studs $130, ARP manifold bolts $90, 3″ exhaust $400, upgraded suspension $1,000, head gasket from Cometic or Buddy Club $130, Greddy timing belt $120, boost controller like a greddy profec E-01 $500, Metal upgraded exhaust manifold gasket $40, throttle body $200, performance intake $350, complete gasket set for your motor $150, Walboro fuel pump $120, plus other little stuff like vacuum hoses, PCV valve fuel filter, and little odds and ends you wont know until the motor gets pulled apart.


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