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How Does This Turbo List Sound? ?

6 Comments 20 December 2009

anything unneccessary.. any thing that could give me more HP that i missed?
Turbo List
PeakBoost GT3582R Turbo Kit – $3,500 – PeakBoost.net
Essentials:
Competition Stage 4 Clutch – $398.57 – Lightning Motorsports
RC 1000cc Injectors – $360.00 – Ebay
Resistor Box from old Honda – $15.00 – Ebay
RC Injector Wire Clip Set – $42.00 – Evasive Motorsports
Koyo Racing Radiator – $378.00 – Clubrsx
Koyo Radiator Cap – $30.00 – Clubrsx
Samco Radiator Hoses – $87.00 – Clubrsx
MSD 3-Bar MAP Sensor and Clip – $78.00 – Clubrsx
Apexi AVC-R Boost Controller – $367.00 – Ebay
Thermo-Tech Heat Wrap 12” X 12” (5 sheets) – $50.00 – Jegs
Vacuum/Boost Block – $50.00 – P2R
Apexi N1 “Blue” Turbo Muffler – $200.00 – Clubrsx
KTeller 3” Stainless Steel Exhaust Piping – $300.00 –Kteller
PeakBoost Test Pipe – $200.00 – PeakBoost.net
NGK Iridium Spark Plugs – $34.91 – Clubrsx
GT Oil Flow Restrictor – $24.99 – Full-Race
RBC Intake Manifold – $310.00 – Clubrsx
PowerRevRacing Throttle Body Gasket – $28.00 – Clubrsx
Buddy Club SECU Turbo Timer – $137.00 – Clubrsx
K&N 4” Filter- $36.00 – Clubrsx
Fuel System:
Bosch Inline Fuel Pump – $199.00 – Jayracing
Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator and Fittings – $174.89 – Clubrsx
-8AN Bulkhead (1) – $16.99 – Jegs
-8AN 45 Degree (1) -$21.99- Jegs
-8AN Bulkhead Nut (1) -$4.69 – Jegs
-8AN Straight Hose Ends (5) – $49.95 – Jegs
-6AN Straight Hose End (1) – $8.99 – Jegs
-6AN 45deg Hose End (1) – $15.99 – Jegs
-6AN 90deg Hose End (1) – $15.99 – Jegs
-8AN Flare Union (1) – $5.49 – Jegs
-8AN to -6AN Reducer (1) – $6.99 – Jegs
-10AN to -8AN Reducers (2) – $17.98 – Jegs
Aeromotive In-Line Fuel Filters (10 Micron) – $18.00 – Clubrsx
Aeromotive Fuel Filter – $96.00 – Clubrsx
Golden Eagle Fuel Rail – $111.00 – Robear Racing
-8AN Earls Pro-Lite 350 Hose (20 ft) – $163.99 – Jegs
-6AN Earls Pro-Lite 350 Hose (20 ft) – $142.99 – Jegs
10pk -8AN Cushion Clamps – $8.99 – Jegs
10pk -6AN Cushion Clamps – $8.99 – Jegs
Fuel Pump Harness and Relay Kit – $24.99 – Jegs
Bosch 044 Inlet Fitting – $10.00 – Jayracing
Bosch 044 Outlet Fitting – $10.00 – Jayracing
Gauges:
Electrical Boost Gauge – $53.50 – Pro-Sport Gauges
Oil Pressure Gauge – $36.99 – Pro-Sport Gauges
Fuel Pressure Gauge – $42.50 – Pro-Sport Gauges
A/F Ratio Gauge – $42.50 – Pro-Sport Gauges
Oil Filter Adapter Plate – $38.99 – Pro-Sport Gauges
Gauge Works Steering Column Pod – $30.25 – Clubrsx
Gauge Works Full Pillar Pod – $60.50 – Clubrsx

Your Comments

6 Comments so far

  1. cleaninc says:

    Heat wrap and a K&N filter come with the kit, so I’d skip the extra stuff. Spending $200 on a muffler, and then cheaping out with gauges is a bad idea. If you search around enough, you can find a good quality 3″ muffler for less than half of that price. I’m talking about stuff from Magnaflow & Flowmaster. A Wideband O2 sensor will be far more beneficial, as well as far more accurate than a cheap A/F gauge. Personally I’d get a liquid filled fuel pressure gauge that mounts in the engine bay, over the one you plan to get. The liquid filled ones are far more accurate and have a more fluid movement to them. Once the car is tuned, it’s also not terribly important to keep an eye on it all the time. Also what kind of engine management system are you going with, Hondata K-Pro?

  2. Petey says:

    $ound$ like kaching! to me!
    Kindof a headache considering you could get a used M3.
    Then all you need to do is drive. Most “contests” are over and done within 100 feet and you don’t need to wear a kidney belt.

  3. Jason R says:

    awesome!

  4. DJ says:

    sorry i have no patients reading all of it…

  5. steve h says:

    your missin somethings and somethings that you have listed you really dont need.
    1. 1000 cc injectors are going to be WAY too big. 750 cc should do you fine…even at max psi
    2. your going to have to iether brace the block or use aebs t-sleeves….considering the k-series is an open deck design
    3. h-beam rods and lower comp pistons should be on this list
    4. the turbo timer is a waste of money….just sit in your car an let it idle instead of spending money on a box to do it for you
    5. think the turbo that you have picked out is a little too much, yeah you can use a gt35…but do a little research into a/r and volumetric efficency of both your motor and the turbo itself.
    6. as for using it on a bone stock rsx…….say bye bye to the motor. you need a lot of internal work to withstand boost pressure that you want to push through this motor.
    other than that it seems like a good list. and good luck

  6. un4m3d4 says:

    You will probably need 1200cc injectors with that set-up but 1000’s will work I’m sure. Switch out the exhaust manifold, get a downpipe, I like pulsar plugs more than NGKs, don’t bother with a 3″ exhaust, go for a 2 1/2 or 2 1/4 instead since you will need some backpressure to spool the turbo up quicker. Replace the valve seals and springs since they tend to break when you run a higher psi and for the love of god re-flash your ECU or you will waste intense amounts of fuel. And don’t forget, have fun!


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